Help a girl out. For our upcoming anniversary, we’ll be in Quebec City and Montreal. Any cool tips to share? 
I’ve been to Montreal about 20 times since it’s only a 4 hour drive, but we’re always there visiting friends, not really as tourists. I’ve never ventured far out of their neighborhood (near Atwater market), Old Montreal, or the downtown area, but since we are spending the first two days alone, we’re going to explore a little so I’d love some help.
I’m looking for vintage and modern home stores, good eats, clothing consignment shops, Japanese shops (for zakka, magazines, books, CD’s), bakeries, sew shops, and fun little districts where there’s a heavy concentration of coffee houses, eclectic shopping and galleries to cruise. (I have a few city links for Montreal in my right column, but I’m willing to beef it up to benefit all if you care to leave links.)
Anyway, thank you in advance for any fun tips you may have. Oh, and we leave on Thursday and will be in Montreal for the first 5 days, then it’s up to QC until the following weekend. I’ve never been to QC, so I’m completely lost when it comes to what’s what up there. Of course, there are a slew of travel sites, but I’d rather hear it from my friends, so please share! :)
(image from Flickr user IreneS. You have to check out her Montreal folder.)
July 9th, 2007 at 4:23 pm
Hi, Holly. I’ve also been to Montreal many times, but nothing specific is jumping out at me, other than bagels, which are surprisingly as good as New York bagels.
However, I had a delightful dinner at Aux Anciens Canadiens in Quebec City. It’s traditional Quebecois cuisine in a charming 300-year-old home…think caribou in blueberry sauce or maple sugar pie. QC is very compact, so you’ll be able to hit all of the stores just by wandering the streets. I’m also a fan of having a high-alcohol content beer at one of the outside cafes and watching the people go by. Happy anniversary!
July 9th, 2007 at 4:29 pm
Hi Holly!
I went to Montreal last May, and I found a shop I liked, Zed Objets, at 4109 boul. Saint-Laurent, Montreal. T: 514-845-7347. It’s full of small items for the home (tabletop/dining) and personal accessories. Lots of Matt&Nat bags (made of vegan materials). Anyway, I thought it was a nice shop and so did my friends! There’s also a gelato shop (really tiny, the size of a closet) somewhere on the opposite side of the street. I can’t recall the name or exact location. Hope that helps a little!
July 9th, 2007 at 4:42 pm
I go to Montreal maybe once a year and we end up walking up and down St. Catherine’s street (lots of clothing stores, closest Urban Outfitters shop to Ottawa). I’ve been wanting to go because I heard Rue St. Denis has tons of houseware stores, Amherst street has lots of furniture and art shops, and St. Laurent below Mont-Royal also has great stores. Hope this helps.
July 9th, 2007 at 4:42 pm
Hi Holly,
I’m from Montreal and my advice is to check out the plateau/mile end district of the city. On a Street called St. Viateur you’ll find a great shop called General 54, along with Italian coffee shops, bagels, and an amazing resto/cafe on the corner of St.Laurent. Bonne Chance!
July 9th, 2007 at 5:24 pm
Hello!
I’m from Montreal too, as said The Mile End is the place right now, but you can go up north on St-Laurent boul. starting in the Vieux Port, past Chinatown, le Plateau and ending that healthy walk in the quartier Italien and the Jean-Talon market. You can go too to the Big O, the Olympic Stadium (metro Pie 1X). From there, venture south to Ste-Catherine street and explore the neighborhood. Don’t miss the Maisonneuve market on Ontario street and go down Morgan Avenue.
If you have a car, try this Ali-Baba cavern, “Urban Recovery” 5524 St-Patrick street, gate A #201
As for Quebec city, start at the Chateau Frontenac, and since everybody else go west from there and stay in the Haute-Ville, go east/north-east and try the Basse-Ville.
Have a great time here… and yes, go to St-Viateur Bagels at 3 in the morning on a friday night, they will taste really good.
July 9th, 2007 at 6:08 pm
My fiance proposed in Quebec City, which is also where we first met. Rue St.Jean is the big tourist destiniation and pretty much anywhere you go in the old city is beautiful. Check out the department store called Simon for cheap threads. You also must try poutine (fries with cheese curds and gravey)—what I would give for some now!
July 9th, 2007 at 6:08 pm
http://www.stviateurbagel.com One of Canada’s true legendary wonders. On St. Viateurbage Street. Open 7 days a week. 24hours! Yummy. Historic! Famous! Also dine at http://www.gibbys.com housed in an old stable. (It was part of the original government buildings of Canada) Very cool. I’ve eaten there and it is awesome!
July 9th, 2007 at 6:10 pm
For a good, yummy bakery, try Olive et Gourmands in Old Montreal. Try and get there early enough for their chocolate brioche.
Stayed at L’auberge in Quebec City. Great hotel.
July 9th, 2007 at 6:17 pm
I used to live in Montreal years ago, and I would echo the advice others have given. You must go to the Plateau. You’ll find all the clothing consignment you could possibly want and some neat little local designers too. I like to go to Mont Royal and St Denis and then walk slowly downtown. There are also many many festivals and street sales in the summer. Have fun!
July 9th, 2007 at 7:07 pm
I would like to recommend “Couleur”, a vintage mid-c furniture store on St.Denis. There are a lot of other houseware stores on that street in that area.
Also “Stash” a Polish restaurant in Old City – the food is fabulous and affordable.
July 9th, 2007 at 7:24 pm
These sites led me to great places to eat off the beat tourist path in Europe, so hopefully they will lend you the same great addresses in Montreal:
http://www.concierge.com/destination/montreal/eating
http://websearch.fineliving.com/fine/web/searchResults?Site=FINE&searchType=Site&searchString=montreal&GoSearch.x=0&GoSearch.y=0&GoSearch=find (listed are several restaurants and bars that Fine Living’s show Opening Soon did a segment on, most of which you can watch online too)
For breads, pastry + Icecream:
http://www.chowhound.com/topics/322119
July 9th, 2007 at 7:43 pm
hi Holly,
I went to university in Montreal but have only been back a few times in the past 10 years. It is a GREAT and beautiful and fun city!
Here is a short list:
1.Two of my favorite home decor shops (which I couldn’t afford as a student) were “Arthur Quentin” and “Bleu Nuit” on rue St.Denis (www.arthurquentin.com). They have tasteful, upscale things.
2. rue St.Denis from Sherbrooke to Mount Royal Ave is a great walk, wonderful shops, cafes, etc.all along
3. Mount Royal Ave for consignment clothes, etc. (several blocks from St. Denis to Pine Ave).
4. If you like art, the Musee des Beaux Arts is lovely. It’s on Sherbrooke St (www.mbam.qc.ca) downtown. They have an Emily Carr exhibit on now – she was a famous Canadian landscape painter and has a great art school named after her in Vancouver.
5. Old Montreal of course. I lived on Champs de Mars…! Since I left it has exploded with shops and restos…
6. Ogilvy (www.ogilvycanada.com) is one of Canada’s oldest and also a beautiful dept. store with lots of boutiques. Located on St. Catherine at Mountain St (“rue de la Montagne”). I haven’t been in there in years but used to go admire the clothes. There is also a great bookstore in the called Nicholas Hoare, which has great art books.
7. Antiques can be found on Notre Dame St (east of Atwater market)
8. Lovely shops on Greene Ave and Sherbrooke just west of downtown in the posh neighborhood of Westmount. I have a well-heeled friend who lives here and raves about the little shops, esp. some nice childrens’ shops (and good bookstores too).
9. The “plateau” (bounded by University on the west, St.Denis on the east, Mount Royal on the north and Sherbrooke to the south) is mostly student residential/historical with lots of bars and cafes and depanneurs (corner stores). The fringe streets (Mount Royal) and core artery (St.Laurent Blvd) are the best for shopping.
10. St.Laurent Blvd in the plateau used to be a little seedy but was THE street to party and be seen when I lived there! It is more raw than St.Denis, for sure but fun for a walk (night clubs, euro diners, smoked meat, hair salons -including the Coupe Bizzarre owned by friends of mine – and mumerous eclectic shops.
11. Duluth St. had lots of funky shops (I used to run into Leonard Cohen at a laundromat there)…
Hope that helps!
July 9th, 2007 at 7:44 pm
Oh this is great feedback. I have to take some time tonight to link around to all these terrific suggestions.
Dina – Their bagels are great, they are the typical boiled Jewish ones, we bring back bags of them and freeze them in zip loc bags. :)
Anon – I like Matt & Nat very much. Have you seen their bags at Marshall’s? Yes, really.
Anon #2 – I have to try poutine this time, I keep avoiding it (calories!) but it’s our anniversary so I’m going to indulge a little. Your fiance sounds great, by the way. A keeper. :)
Deepa – We are Polish in Montreal years ago, but not in the old city, elsewhere… It was great. Maybe we’ll try Stash this time. It’s a little like German food, so my husband may like it.
Thanks to everyone else.
Oh and another question… We’ll be there on Bastille Day, is that the US equiv of July 4th in Montreal?
Holly
July 9th, 2007 at 7:47 pm
Some tips for you, Holly!
Clothing consignment shops to check out:
- Memento, located near the corner of St Denis and Cherrier (near metro Sherbrooke). Check out how amazing they’ve made the outfits in the front window look!
- The friperie at the corner of Duluth and St Laurent (the name of the store is escaping me, unfortunately)
If you want to do some fancy gift-y shopping (interspersed with art galleries), check out Laurier Street, between Cote St. Catherine and St. Laurent. And as others have mentioned, St Denis is the place to go for housewares and some furniture stores, as well.
I’d also recommend you walk the length of Mont Royal, between the mountain and Parc Lafontaine. Tons of fun little stores and coffee shops here. The park is also gorgeous – perfect for a picnic.
Have a great time!
July 9th, 2007 at 7:49 pm
Unfortunately you just missed the equivalent of the 4th of July here, which is St. Jean Baptiste Day. :) It’s always a crazy party!
July 9th, 2007 at 7:59 pm
Hi Holly!
I’m from Quebec, and work in Montreal. All that’s been said is true, but there’s another place i like and it’s changing deeply right now, is Plaza St-Hubert. It’s on St-Hubert St. and you can get there with Beaubien and Jean-Talon metro. There’s cool clothings stores like Crazy Lily (http://www.myspace.com/crazylilyboutique) who’s selling only quebec designers. There is still a lot of wedding and fabric stores (close to Jean-Talon)
And in my last trip to Quebec city, i’ve been to St-Rock neighborhood and i found it very cool. It’s not what it used to be. just like the Plaza St-Hubert.
Have a nivc trip!
July 9th, 2007 at 11:26 pm
I am not sure if this place carries Japanese craft books, but there is a Japanese paper shop in Montreal – http://www.aupapierjaponais.com/index_des_cours.html
Have fun!
July 10th, 2007 at 1:06 am
This is my first time leaving a comment here. Your request compelled me to share a few things with you about Montreal and Quebec.
Just saw an interesting article about a restaurant that has a fantastic 1970-esque cottage style decor with great sounding food, including poutines. It’s called “? Chalet”. It’s located at 1393 Ren?-L?vesque Blvd E, Montreal.
It’s the decor not the food that’s making me want to go there!
While I don’t know much about Montreal, I do know Quebec City a bit more. Old Quebec (Vieux Quebec) consists of two level: Upper-town (Haute-ville) and lower town (Basse-ville). Both sections are worth visiting. In both sections, there are touristy sections and less touristy parts and they’re both worth your time and your eyes to see.
The food market in the lower-town on a major street (I think it’s called: Quai St. Andre or Rue Dalhousie [Quai = Quay and Rue = Street].) is definitely a place to visit. It may even inspire you to visit the farmland galore at Ile d’Orleans which is a short drive northeast of Quebec City.
Be sure to post your favourite stores and sights when you return from your visit in Montreal and Quebec.
Bonne voyages!
July 10th, 2007 at 2:27 am
check out the latest issue of budget travel – i just read it and there’s a great section on montreal.
July 10th, 2007 at 3:46 am
Hi Holly,
So excited to hear you’re coming to our fair city! All the comments people have left are really good, personally I think your favorites will be Amherst, St. Denis and Mile End, and the vintage store Memento is a great point too.
My boyfriend and I own a gallery/boutique featuring handmade goods here in Montreal, I think it would be right up your alley. It’s called Headquarters Gallery & Boutique, I’ve linked to our blog in my name if you would like more info. Oh and we’re having an art opening this Saturday, wine/beer, music, etc. from 6-midnight.
AND we just happen to be on Amherst street, which is known mainly for the MCM antiques. I’ve found some really great pieces in many of the shops, and some very fair prices as well. Anyhoo, if you feel the need for a guide, or want to e-mail me for some specifics, drop me a line,I’d be more than happy to help! (the e-mail is on the blog)
Have fun and enjoy a great anniversary!!
July 10th, 2007 at 12:43 pm
Ooh, you may just catch the beginning of Loto-Qu?bec International Fireworks Competition, which my husband and I saw several years ago. Here’s the link.
Will you still be there July 21st? That’s the first day of the festivities. Montmorency Falls Park is only ten minutes from Qu?bec City, and we watched them from the top, looking out over the waterfalls, which was amazing.
July 10th, 2007 at 1:21 pm
Hi Holly! I live N. of Boston and I just came back from Montreal and QC. In Montreal, two really good restaurants are Vieux Port in Old Montreal and Horses Tail on Rene Levesque Blvd. Horse’s Tail is Queue Cheval (or something like that in French). It’s a couple of blocks down from the Queen Elizabeth hotel.
We walked down Rue Catherine, where there are lots of shops. I love the Roots store and bought a bag there. The entire street is fun. We walked all the way down to Rue Denis. Once you get past the Place des Artes (which is before Rue Denis), it gets a bit dicey, though. There is a mall across from the Place des Artes, though. Good place for a bathroom break.
Rue Denis has lots of shops and cafes. A shop that I really liked was Senteurs de Provence. They have beautiful handpainted pottery and soaps and pretty linens. There is a coffee shop next door. A couple of doors down there is a little cafe (with an awning — didn’t get the name) that would make a good lunch break.
We walked down toward Mont-Royal and found another coffee shop on the corner, right across from Le Chateau (clothing store). To get to the Metro, make a right on Mont-Royal. There are a few vendors in the plaza there. But, beyond the metro, it gets a bit dicey again. In Old Montreal, there is the Marche Bonsecours. A long, horizontal building with a silver dome. There is a shop at the far end that has lots of fun and funky home items. I didn’t get the name, though.
In QC, we had a hard time finding restaurants we liked. Il Teatro was OK. The appetizers and desserts were good. We had dinner at Le Lobby and it was not good at all. The wine was old and they served my husband a martini made from a mix! We actually had our best meal in QC at the Musee des Beaux Arts. The Frontenac has excellent meals, but they are pricey and it’s best to make a reservation. If you are in the old city, near the Frontenac, there are all kinds of shops.
Hope this helps. Have a great time!
July 10th, 2007 at 4:13 pm
We just went. No tips, but we loved the city!
July 10th, 2007 at 4:51 pm
You might like to see the “english” part, it’s 2 neighbourhoods that are very different from the rest of Montreal. There is the rich Westmount, it’s a small city within Montr?al, and NDG (Notre-Dame-de-Gr?ce), it is interesting architecturaly, it also has great big 30 yrs old trees.
July 10th, 2007 at 6:00 pm
By the way, the Marche Bonsecours (I think that’s what it’s called) is in the picture on your post! The shop with the fun and funky items I mentioned would be found on the left end of this picture. Happy Anniversary!
July 10th, 2007 at 9:29 pm
Au Pied de Cochon for dinner in Montreal.
http://www.restaurantaupieddecochon.ca/index_eng.html#
July 10th, 2007 at 9:31 pm
Hi Holly,
Montreal has so many great finds, you’re going to have a good time.
I agree with all of these tips but here are a few I’d like point out.
If you want the best poutine in town…check out Casse-Cro?te La Banquise (994 Rachel E., 525-2415). You’ll find line-ups at 4am. Poutine is the best hangover cure. They have several types of poutine and great hot-dogs.
The best coffee in town is at Caf? Olympico, 124, rue St-Viateur West. Since I’ve moved to Toronto, I’ve actually considered the 5 hr. drive I miss it so much!
Again, while you’re on St. Viateur you should check out the bagels, they are amazing when fresh out of the over. I must say I prefer these to New York style ones.
General 54 is a great suggestion by Samantha. The mile end has the most eclectic vintage shopping.
Then I’d suggest walking south on St. Laurent from St. Viateur. There are tons of amazing furniture stores on that strip.
For the best pizza, check out Prato. Ask for Rosa, Tony or Matt and say that Laura sent you. It’s a family owned place with pizza made with Rosa’s wonderful loving hands. Mmmmmmmmmm
And then there’s another 4am tradition on Cresent St. Boustan shish-taouk…it’s chicken shwarma Montreal style.
As for clothing stores, I’d check out St. Denis. I always find what I’m looking for on that street. Plus, Zone Furniture is there, lots of neat stuff (that I’m sure you’ve seen a million times).
Of course, Old Montreal is a must. Olive and Gourmando is sinful (351 RUE SAINT-PAUL OUEST), Europea Espace Boutique (33 RUE NOTRE-DAME OUEST) , a gourmet shop opened by one of the city’s top chefs, J?r?me Ferrer and my favourite Le Cartet (106 RUE MCGILL)…gourmet lunches and a brunch to die for.
If you hit up Le Cartet, you should walk around the south corner and you’ll find a secret warehouse with tons of homewares by ADV design. Pillar candles for $1, placemats for 50 cents, furniture, bath accessories, etc. NO TAX. Ask the locals, they’ll know.
Hope that helps. I love Decor8…you’re my idol, Holly!
July 10th, 2007 at 9:33 pm
Hi Holly,
Montreal has so many great finds, you’re going to have a good time.
I agree with all of these tips but here are a few I’d like point out.
If you want the best poutine in town…check out Casse-Cro?te La Banquise (994 Rachel E., 525-2415). You’ll find line-ups at 4am. Poutine is the best hangover cure. They have several types of poutine and great hot-dogs.
The best coffee in town is at Caf? Olympico, 124, rue St-Viateur West. Since I’ve moved to Toronto, I’ve actually considered the 5 hr. drive I miss it so much!
Again, while you’re on St. Viateur you should check out the bagels, they are amazing when fresh out of the over. I must say I prefer these to New York style ones.
General 54 is a great suggestion by Samantha. The mile end has the most eclectic vintage shopping.
Then I’d suggest walking south on St. Laurent from St. Viateur. There are tons of amazing furniture stores on that strip.
For the best pizza, check out Prato. Ask for Rosa, Tony or Matt and say that Laura sent you. It’s a family owned place with pizza made with Rosa’s wonderful loving hands. Mmmmmmmmmm
And then there’s another 4am tradition on Cresent St. Boustan shish-taouk…it’s chicken shwarma Montreal style.
As for clothing stores, I’d check out St. Denis. I always find what I’m looking for on that street. Plus, Zone Furniture is there, lots of neat stuff (that I’m sure you’ve seen a million times).
Of course, Old Montreal is a must. Olive and Gourmando is sinful (351 RUE SAINT-PAUL OUEST), Europea Espace Boutique (33 RUE NOTRE-DAME OUEST) , a gourmet shop opened by one of the city’s top chefs, J?r?me Ferrer and my favourite Le Cartet (106 RUE MCGILL)…gourmet lunches and a brunch to die for.
If you hit up Le Cartet, you should walk around the south corner and you’ll find a secret warehouse with tons of homewares by ADV design. Pillar candles for $1, placemats for 50 cents, furniture, bath accessories, etc. NO TAX. Ask the locals, they’ll know.
Hope that helps. I love Decor8…you’re my idol, Holly!
July 10th, 2007 at 9:36 pm
Oh and I forgot Garde-Manger…a deep-fried Mars bar is their speciality. That and dancing on tables at 3am.
408 RUE SAINT-FRAN?OIS-XAVIER
Amazing Steak-Frites!
Have fun
July 11th, 2007 at 2:14 pm
Happy Aniversary Holly & Thorsten!
July 11th, 2007 at 7:33 pm
This is my suggestion on where to eat in Montreal:
In Outremont
Restaurant Alloro – 160 Laurier West
Go for a drink at Barmacie Baldwin 115 Laurier West
Chez Leveque – 1030 Laurier West
In Plateau Mont-Royal
Cafe Melies – 3536 Saint Laurent
Jano – 3883 Saint Laurent
Primadonna Ristorante & Bar Sushi – 3479 Saint Laurent
Pullman – 3424 Avenue Du Parc
Tri Express ? 1650 Laurier East
Zumaia – 3712 Saint Laurent
For bar after dinner, try the groovy Gogo Lounge 3682 Saint Laurent
In Old Montreal
Olive & Gourmando – 351 Saint-Paul West
Le Club Chasse et Peche – 423 Saint Claude
Version Laurent Godbout ? 295 Saint-Paul East
I say why I like them on a post I published on my blog.
For shopping, I will add:
My favorite clothing shops are the indie shops (same owner) Boutique Extc and Ima on Prince Arthur, just west of the pedestrian street (to avoid in my opinion). For nice leather accessories and casual clothes, I like m0851 on Saint-Laurent. Revenge on Saint-Denis carries Quebec designers clothing. Check out Sylvie Germain jewelry at Revenge.
July 11th, 2007 at 11:24 pm
i seriously think that combining talents like this, we could all have one hellava travel blog. :)
thank you all so much.
July 12th, 2007 at 7:10 pm
I don’t know if this is to late, but there is one place that you’ve got to go see if you are in montreal and you love chocolat. suite 88 (3957 rue Saint-Denis) is simply amazing. They have delicious ice cream (praline is my favorite) and cakes but their thing is chocolat. they have super yummy combinations that look amazing and taste like heaven…I had to sit down when I ate my first Litchi and Ginger Dome. OH MY!
http://www.suite88.com/
July 12th, 2007 at 7:18 pm
if by bastille day you mean july 14 then it has little to do with montreal since it’s the aniversary of the french revolution. there are a bunch of people from france in montreal, but the 14 is not celebrated like saint-patric’s day or the saint-jean-baptiste.